Circuit Sculpture DIY

 Step 1: Front and back legs, as well as rings

I didn't take nearly as many photographs as I should have in order to create a comprehensive guide.

In any case, these are the key stages.

Begin by utilising a bench power source to set the output voltage of the two converters.

With a 9v input, the low voltage converter is programmed to produce 12v.

Using a 12v input, the high voltage converter is adjusted to its maximum output voltage (about 210v).

After that, wipe up the tube!

To make soldering easier, I've cleaned and sanded the back connections.

I began by shaping and welding the two brass rings that will be attached to the tube's ends.

Then, using copper wire, I drew a preliminary drawing of the legs, establishing the general size.

I sketched a leg shape and used it to create the front legs.

A crude rig was used to build the front legs and front ring for soldering, as illustrated in the photo.

The legs were then temporarily glued to a temporary wooden foundation, and the front ring was glued to the tube with hot glue.

This aided in positioning the beast correctly.

I was able to calculate the length and location of the hind legs once I was in place.

Soldering the back legs was a challenge!

The rear ring was attached to the left rear leg (this is going to be the 9V supply ground).

However, because the right rear leg will be the 9V supply VCC, it must be separated from the back ring.

So its end was first covered in shrink wrap before being superglued to the back ring.

The tube is positioned such that the marking is at the top.

This gives a good vision inside the tube as well as a good orientation for the luminous iris of the eye.

Step 2: Connecting the Tube

This diagram has been used by me.

I started with the resistors and then moved on to the filament power supply.

I picked the polarity of the power supply to make connecting GND to pin 8 easier.

At 9 volts, the filament is little overdriven, but it will never be on for an extended period of time, so it's OK.

Before soldering, I pre-measured each wire length and pre-adjusted each brass wire.

The high-voltage power supply lines followed next.

A little amount of hot glue is used to adhere the high voltage converter to the tube.

Fortunately, the pins of the high-voltage tube are almost aligned with the converter output pins.

Step 3: Antennas and a Low Voltage Converter

The low voltage DC converter comes next.

It's time to connect the tube's output to the high-voltage converter input with a little hot glue.

The brass wires had to be bent around the tube and crossed over each other to accomplish this.

The rear brass ring (ground) and the right rear leg are linked to the low voltage DC converter input (VCC).

Don't forget to join pins 7 and 8 together.

I also wanted to be able to make the iris move while touching the brass in order to bring this beast to life.

The idea is to set it to a negative voltage using the grid pin (4). This will be -9 volts, which may be easily obtained with two 9 volt battery batteries.

It occurred to me that if this beast had antennas that performed this role, it would be cool.

So pin 4 is attached to a small 1mm brass rod fashioned as antennae, which may touch the front ring (connected to the -9v power source) when squeezed, with a long 1.5mm brass rod.

This has a bouncy shape to it.

The brass rod is inserted beneath the +12v line. Touching this line causes the iris to become "tightly contracted," which creates a pleasing impression.

Now is the time to double-check the wiring, attach the batteries to the legs, and turn on the electricity!

Soldering brass is difficult and might result in "cold solders" and faulty connections.

Double-checking continuity and repairing solders, especially on T-joints, were required.

We're ready to build the foundation that will hold the batteries if everything checks up.

Step 4: The Wooden Foundation

I glued together five 10x10cm 5mm-thick plywood laser-cut pieces.

A little sanding, a power switch hole, and a great touch of old wood stain and wax completed the project.

I positioned the sculpture on the base, repositioned the legs, and designated holes to be drilled after the base was complete.

I used a 2mm drill bit to make the holes.

The power supply wires will be housed in three of them.

A small piece of copper wire will be attached to the 4th to keep the leg in place.

The wires were soldered to the base at the end of the legs where they touched.

The wiring for the battery and switch is simple.

One battery is connected to the filament and DC converter power supply (rear legs) through the switch, with the polarity maintained.

The other battery's positive connection is linked to the first battery's ground, and its ground wire is attached to a front leg, delivering a -9 V power supply to the front ring (and to pin 4 when touched by the antennae).

The temporary hot glue that held the front ring on the tube was then removed and replaced with a drop of super-glue.

And that's all there is to it!

In my circuit sculptures bestiary, a new beast has been introduced.

It's here if you're ever interested in seeing my first try at a circuit sculpture.